Transportation Alternatives
Introduction
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| Karen children at play |
This will be the first (of at least two) posts on northern Thailand. In a subsequent post, I want to share with you the story of my Thai friend, yut, and our trek into far and high places where we visited several mountain enclaves of the reclusive Karen and Lisu clans.
NOTE: All Thai are referred to by their "nickname," which is never capitalized (as in "yut" in the previous paragraph).
But now, my introduction to the second largest city in Thailand, the justifiably popular, Chiang Mai.
Train or Plane
I have journeyed to Chiang Mai by air and rail. Certainly air is the preferred mode if time is a constraint, but the option of rail is also a very pleasant alternative. Travel by train is very economical and there are two different options from which to choose:
- Overnight sleeping coach - The over-night train leaves Bangkok in the evening and arrives Chiang Mai the following morning. You can find the schedule(s) and photos of the different sleeping accommodations at the link provided above.
- Day-Coach - This is a fun way to see the agricultural (rice) country as-well-as wind your way up and over the mountains that separate the Ping River valley and Chiang Mai from the central provinces of Thailand's Chao Phraya flood plain.
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| Rice paddy along railroad right-of-way |
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| Mountains South of Chiang Mai |
The train trip does take several hours so if your schedule is prohibitively tight, AsiaAir is the most expedient option. Chiang Mai flights from Bangkok's DON MUENG International Airport are frequent and very economical.
The airport in Chiang Mai is very user friendly (as is the train terminal) and transportation into the city from the airport is readily available.
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| Ping River |
Tale of Two Cities - Old and Contemporary
The accurately documented history of Chiang Mai reaches back several centuries. For an instructional visual journey that steps you forward from the 13th Century to modern times, you must visit the old Chiang Mai City Hall.
The City administration maintains a series of beautiful exhibits and displays which artistically narrate the history and development of Chiang Mai (and the surrounding region). If you are planning to spend several days in this region, I highly
recommend touring the Old City Hall's exhibits for a thorough
orientation.
Chiang Mai is the largest and most culturally significant city in northern Thailand, and former capital of the Lanna Kingdom (1296–1768). It was considered a "subsidiary" Kingdom of Thailand from 1774 until its integration in 1939. It is located along the Ping River, a major tributary of the Chao Phraya River, 435 miles (700 kilometers) north of Bangkok, nestled among the highest mountains in the country.
It is significant to note, Chiang Mai is the only tourist destination in Thailand to have made Trip Advisor's 2012 list of the "25 Best Destinations in the World." Chiang Mai was number 24.
Inside The Moat - The "Old City"
The area of Chiang Mai which lies inside the moat and what remains of the ancient wall, are colloquially know as "The Old City". The Old City provides a very relaxed atmosphere compared to the frenetic pace of Bangkok.
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| The moat isolates the 1.5 Square Kilometer Old City from Greater Chiang Mai |
One of my favorite guest houses (I have been a repeat customer), is the Anoma Boutique Guest House. Unfortunately, their very attractive web-site has a Google caution attached, that warns of potential intrusion by "malicious software." Therefore, I strongly suggest you access Anoma's information through a booking service such as Agoda.
Agoda will provide information on several other lodging venues, but I have found that a walking tour of the old city reveals additional, very appealing alternatives that may not be listed on "booking" web-sites.
If you have the time, exploring for your own lodging can lead to a more economical, satisfying and personal experience.
Scheduling A local Itinerary
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| Hand-made articles of world-famous Thai silk |
Chiang Mai's "Old City" is very compact and the ideal setting for a "walking tour." One of the highlights of a Chiang Mai visit, is the Sunday Walking Street.
This weekly event draws all the artisans from numerous villages and mountain enclaves to market their beautiful, hand-made trinkets, clothing, weaving, basketry...the list is exhaustive!
The market is reserved for local artisans. Mass-produced "factory" items are not admitted access to this venue.
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| Intricate patterns and designs produced on hand-made looms for the Sunday Walking Street market of Chiang Mai |
As the name implies, this event is Sunday. I always plan my itinerary to make this my last activity in Chiang Mai. I'm not wanting to pack my purchases around the region for a week or ten days. You might want to consider taking or buying an extra valise in which to transport your booty!
Antiquities and Wats
It seems that around every corner in Chiang Mai, is located a wat
(Buddhist Temple). Many date from the 15th or 16th century and remnants
of original structures, some in serviceable repair, are very accessible.
I would recommend at least two days should be dedicated to a casual
stroll through the inner confines of the "Old City" to view and
appreciate the scope and magnitude of Chiang Mai's influence in this
region of SE Asia for half a millennium.
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| Dawn has bathed this Buddhist Shrine in morning light for more than half-a-millennium |
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| The artistry, architecture and historical significance is breathtaking. |
Beyond the Ancient Wall and Moat
Greater Chiang Mai
There are countless venues of great interest in or near Chiang Mai. Activities include much more than mundane sight-seeing, i.e. visiting museums, wats or simply shopping.
The Ping River invites several different activities from rafting to dinner cruises. Near-by elephant rehabilitation camps will provide you a glimpse of the important role Asian Elephants have played in the evolution of SE Asia's culture and economy.
Chiang Mai is the "jumping-off" point for many and varied natural encounters with the hill tribes indigenous to northern Thailand and adjacent nation-states. One of the highlights from a previous visit, was the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens on the doi Suthep. There are hot springs and National Parks and the "loop tour" which provides an interesting 2-3 day excursion through breath-taking mountain and water-shed scenery.
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| One of several habitats displaying flora collected from throughout the world - Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens |
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| View of Chiang Mai from atop doi Suthep |
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| Popular lake near Chiang Mai |
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep - Thailand's Second Most Revered Temple
Many Thai make an annual pilgrimage to visit the famous and storied Wat Phrathat doi Suthep. I have found the easiest and most practical way to visit this immensely popular shrine, is to hire a local van or taxi and plan an early morning departure to (hopefully) avoid the rush of crowds and tour buses.
My favorite guide and host, who provides informative, diverse, safe and economical service, is Paul Collins. Paul is a very unique young man. I want to emphasize my characterization, unique!
Paul is a North American who was born and raised in northern Thailand. He speaks multiple Thai dialects with fluency and possesses an incredible inventory of knowledge specifically focusing on northern Thailand, its culture, micro-communities and many other fascinating historic and adventure venues.
Paul is the proprietor of a service known as Best Tuk Tuk Tours. Do yourself a favor, and consider spending a day with this terrific young man. I promise, you will not regret a moment of your time with him! You can contact Paul here: "Paul Collins" <besttuktuktours@yahoo.com>
Paul is a North American who was born and raised in northern Thailand. He speaks multiple Thai dialects with fluency and possesses an incredible inventory of knowledge specifically focusing on northern Thailand, its culture, micro-communities and many other fascinating historic and adventure venues.
Paul is the proprietor of a service known as Best Tuk Tuk Tours. Do yourself a favor, and consider spending a day with this terrific young man. I promise, you will not regret a moment of your time with him! You can contact Paul here: "Paul Collins" <besttuktuktours@yahoo.com>
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| Easier walking down than up! |
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| The principle Temple domain - doi Suthep |
The shrine was obviously a monumental effort to build. The flanks of doi Suthep are steep and heavily forested. The enormous commitment of the hundreds of individuals who literally slaved in devotion to their philosophy and beliefs is almost beyond comprehension.
It was an immense privilege to visit this remarkable edifice and shrine to The Lord Buddha.
It was an immense privilege to visit this remarkable edifice and shrine to The Lord Buddha.
PERSONAL NOTE: Many of the photos in this post were the accomplishment of my friend and occasional travel companion, Tom, whose considerable experience trekking throughout SE Asia (and his insight regarding prudent travel in this region), has immeasurably enhanced my independent travels since our first trip to Chiang Mai in 2011.
My next post will present highlights of a multi-day trek through the mountains several miles northwest of Chiang Mai. For those of you familiar with the beaches and seascapes of southern Thailand, this will be a dramatic contrast!
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| Magnificent mountain scenery of northern Thailand |
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