Island Life - Thailand's Andaman Sea

Thailand's Geologic Diversity

The remarkable diversity of Thailand's natural resources provokes curiosity and begs a myriad of questions regarding the influence of this diversity on the micro-cultures and life-style of Thailand's inhabitants.

Mountains of the North

Dramatic Contrasts

 

Three principle geographic regions comprise Thailand.

These can be further sub-divided into at least four distinct marine sub-regions, three mountainous regions and the Chao Phraya drainage system which is vast, complex and diverse in its own right.

The three principle regions are the northern mountains, the vast, nearly-flat central flood plain and delta of the Chou Phraya River, and, the peninsular mountains, lowland hills, limestone karsts and magnificent seashores of the Malay Peninsula.

Delta slough of the Chao Phraya River

Thailand's seashore(s) is actually two separate entities, the Andaman Sea of the Malay Peninsula's West Coast, and the magnificent crescent of beaches rimming the Gulf of Siam, (now known as the Gulf of Thailand).

Both, the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand, host several archipelagos comprised of beautiful islands and reefs abundantly populated with fish and spectacular invertebrate marine life.

 

National Park - koh Lanta yai

The two biggest islands, Phuket and koh Lanta yai, are well known by North American and northern European tourists. They have become playgrounds of those who are trapped by the harsh winter climate of the northern hemisphere. From mid-October through mid-March, the airports of Krabi and Phuket resemble a revolving-door, through which several million tourists pass every "high-season".

Phuket, in the same fashion as Pattaya, has (unfortunately) been reduced to a disgusting amalgamation of rowdy, party-going tourists and Thai businessmen preying on the alchohol, drug and sex-seeking hoardes of tourists from (primarily) Eastern Europe and Australia. Several low-fare charter airlines provide a never-ending stream of gullible tourists from Russia and other European population centers during the high-season.

In defense of legitimate Thai businesses (and they are many) most of the tawdry venues are actually controlled by non-Thai ex-patriots from eastern Europe, most notably, Russia. These "businessmen" find loop-holes in the Thai statutes  limiting ownership to Thai, form a partnership with a Thai man or marry a Thai woman, then manipulate the association to control the business operation.

Apparently little effort has been forthcoming by the Thai authorities to discourage illegal manipulation of the commercial code.

In contrast, are the more southern islands of Krabi Province, who have wisely discouraged the "fast-crowd" and encouraged a more family-oriented and laid-back environment. The influence of conservative Muslim and Buddhist enclaves, and the importance of agriculture, in addition to the tourism, have thus far prevented over-exploitation of the beautiful environs South of Phuket, at least for the time being.

One example of the "family-friendly" environs on koh Lanta yai, is the presence of two very fine Swedish schools which cater to the large population of semi-resident Swedish families who flock to southern Ktabi Province each northern European winter

The Island Life - Southern Thailand's koh Lanta yai

 

 

Do not plan a vacation or an extended visit to koh Lanta yai if:

• You do not like the sunshine;
• Friendly people and serene surroundings bore you;
• A wide variety of Thai food is not your cuisine of choice;
• You find calm surf, fine sand beaches and laid-back beach bars objectionable;
• A choice of many beaches, restaurants and activities will confuse and disorient you.

Traveling from Bangkok To koh Lanta yai

The best way (by far) to travel from Bangkok to koh Lanta yai is to book a flight on AsiaAir from Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok to the Krabi International Airport. The actual flight is approximately 1.5 hours to the airport in Krabi Province. The Krabi airport is safe, modern and very user friendly.

As of October 15th 2012, AsiaAir will change its location in Bangkok (for all domestic flights) to Don Muang Airport. Another option for travelers from northern and eastern Europe, and from North America, is to consider a flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. AsiaAir and Thai Air provide direct flights to Krabi from Kuala Lumpur if you do not have an interest in visiting Bangkok.

Passenger Ferry Boat - Ao nang to Outer Island Resorts

Once you arrive Krabi, the trip to koh Lanta will take up to three hours. You have three options:

• By passenger only ferry boat from Ao nang, a near-by village pier;
• Private air-conditioned van (most expensive) but the most timely option;
• Community bus to Krabi Town then transfer to a shared air-conditioned van (recommended).

Before you depart Bangkok for Krabi and koh Lanta is important to understand and follow this routine if you choose my recommended travel option from the airport to koh Lanta yai:

• Contact Black Tiger Tours and request you speak to "peng". He is the owner, speaks English and will do everything humanly possible to make sure you have a successful journey from Krabi airport to your accommodations on koh Lanta yai. peng can be reached here. His phone number is 089-7297126 or 075-612499.
• Provide peng your flight arrival information and he will, in turn, advise you regarding your van reservation to koh Lanta yai.
• When you arrive at the Krabi airport, opposite the baggage claim area, you will see a pair of small booths with a sign that says "TAXI" of "LIMO". As you approach the booth, you will be accosted by several ambitious, smiley and friendly Thai girls who will want to sell you a limo ticket. Smile back at them and say, "need ticket on bus to Krabi pier." They will sell you a bus ticket and guide you to your bus, which will take you directly to peng at the Black Tiger rendezvous (great food at peng's place while you wait for your van...if there is a wait, which is rare).

The Black Tiger air conditioned van will take you from Krabi Town, via two ferry crossings and about a 1.5 - 2 hour ride, directly to your lodging on the island. At the time of this post, the cost per person is 300 THB (about 9 USD) as opposed to 1800 THB per person if you opt for the limo at the airport...a significant difference!

Your return from koh Lanta to Krabi will be arranged and booked by your lodging host. The van will pick you up at your lodging and take you directly to the Krabi airport...no transfers required.

Choosing this option will result in a saving approximately 3000 THB per person in RT travel costs, enough to probably pay for your entire bar bill or pay for a full day,  two-person snorkel trip (complete with lunch) to an outer island!

LODGING - Where To Stay

The link provided here will take you to a website that has an interactive map of koh Lanta yai. You can place your mouse cursor on the segments of the map, left-click and it will expand the segment, providing the location of each major beach and the resorts located on each beach.

I suggest you use a booking service such as Agoda and also Trip Advisor to explore the possibilities of individual resorts noted on the map. Also, bear-in-mind that a number of new or remodeled resorts and restaurants open up at the beginning of each season.

Before the beginning of the "high-season" for 2012 (15 November 2012 - 15 March 2013) I will add a short blog post to note the newest resorts and restaurants I've had a chance to personally visit on koh Lanta before the 2012 season gets into "high-gear."

And the beach is only 150 meters away!

 

View from the deck of an "Old Town" Pole House

Your choices are about as varied as you can imagine. I have stayed in modest cabanas, rented a modern apartment for a long-stay (three months) and have had friends reside in everything from Five-Star accommodation to funky, rehabilitated pole houses perched above the the calm waters of "Old Town".

I think it depends on the level of service you demand, your willingness to seek alternative variations of the island-beach-living experience and (of course) your self-imposed budget constraints.

Pole House comfort - Mango House, Old Town Lanta

I have found that one way to really enjoy this island, is to book a stay at one of the many conveniently located, modestly priced resorts near Saladan (Klong Dao) or Long Beach (Phra Ae), then explore the island by motor bike.

If you find a resort at the South end of the island, which is much quieter and laid back, then you can easily make the transition from the more "up-tempo" area of Long Beach and the beach at Klong Dao (near the village of Saladan) to your new find.

Favorite Beaches - koh Lanta yai

 

The West facing (Andaman Sea) coastline has the only beaches worthy of mention. There are many, some quite obvious and easy to find; others not so obvious and requiring a sense of adventure. The latter are the most pristine and beautiful. It is so much fun to load a backpack, take off in the early morning, and seek a remote and isolated mini-beach and just "hang" for the better part of a day.

The last section of this post provides photos from my stay in 2012, of some beaches I enjoyed. The vast majority of these beaches are easily accessed by renting a motor bike and heading South towards the National Park.

If you wish to enter the National Park (and I heartily recommend a visit to the beautiful beach there) a small entrance fee is required for non-Thai visitors. It is well worth the very modest outlay!

 

Beach Klong Dao

There are too many beaches to mention here, so I'll briefly describe a few of the more accessible beaches and great places to eat or enjoy a liquid refreshment near-by. The busiest, but one of the most beautiful beaches (especially for kids), is Klong Dao, near the village of Saladan.

Veed View Pub - Beach front dining and relaxation

Not only is it a great walking beach with plenty of resorts, but it's centrally located. My favorite place to eat at this beach is Veed View, a beautifully constructed pub and restaurant right on the beach. (Beautiful sunsets are an added bonus).

Veed View is a terrific place for snacks, lunch, dinner or cold drinks. There is a nightly beach BBQ and the staff is just terrific, hospitable and they welcome families with kids of all ages.

 

 

Beach Phra Ae

 

 

Phra Ae is known by the "farang" as Long Beach, and, is just that...long! You can spend an entire day walking from one end of Phra Ae to the opposite end, then catch a ride back to your starting point in one of the many three-wheeled "tuk tuks" that constantly patrol the highway, looking for passengers.

There are many beach restaurants and refreshment stops along the way.

Marina Resort - Thatched-roof Bungalows

At the southern-most end of Phrae Ae, is a funky little resort known as Marina Resort. The small thatched roof bungalows are in a garden-like setting on  the beach and very modestly priced. The Marina has a very fine cook and serves a broad and varied menu of Thai dishes as-well-as a "farang" breakfast.

Marina makes a convenient departure point for hikes either direction...to the North, the entire length of Phrae Ae, or to the South, around a rocky promontory to three separate, lovely beaches.

Soontreeya Lobby Sala

Soontreeya Bungalows

Next to Marina is Soontreeya Resort, a little more up-scale with a swimming pool. Soontreeya is also a garden setting only two hundred meters from Phra Ae beach.

It is a quiet venue with terrific hosts, toon and puy, who arrange your return transportation and excursions about koh Lanta .

There are several snorkeling sites off-shore to which they will arrange a ride for you, elephant treks and many other activities revealing the several beaches and island venues of interest.

Anda Lanta Resort -  Klong Jaak Bay

 

Coffee or fruit snacks on the beach

I hosted two friends from North America for a month in Thailand, ten days of which they stayed on koh Lanta. Trisha and Karen spent the first two days at Marina Resort at the South end of Phra Ae Beach.

The third day, they moved to the very quiet and beautiful confines of Anda Lanta Resort, near the National Park, at Klong Jaack Bay. I think the photos below, speak much more adequately than my narrative, about the hospitality and natural beauty of koh Lanta's southern beach venues!

Massage anyone

It is probably pointless for me to tell you how much Trish and Karen enjoyed their time at the South end of the island. The beaches are pristine and uncrowded.

Access to adjacent beaches is easily accomplished by motor-bike, song thaew or, if you are very motivated and ambitious, by kyak or simply hiking!

 

Looking to the right - mid-day and contemplating lunch!

Looking to the left -sunrise and morning coffee!

Alternative boat styles for transportation to outer-island beaches

 

There are many modes of transportation for getting about while you are on the island of koh Lanta.
Some are more practical; some are more fun!

Song Thaew (song tao)

Friendly Pachyderm

Exercise and visit the beach around the corner!

 

 

Photo Essay of koh Lanta Beaches - 2011 thru 2012

 

Snorkel site - Four Island Day Trip

Primary Beach - National Park

Beach at "Same Same But Different" - Restaurant South of Klong Nin

Bamboo (Pai) Beach - South of Klong Nin

This beach is actually one of two, a short distance North of the National Park

Personal Reflections

The ubiquitous motor-bike.

I have now visited koh Lanta on three separate occasions. The first trip was basically a "reconnoiter" of the island to make an assessment of its potential for a long-stay.

The first trip I met and was befriended by a local Thai family with whom I have become very attached. Their hospitality and encouragement led me to a three-month extended stay during the 2012 high season.

During my stay, I explored many varied venues on the island and came to know several other Thai families, with whom I have enjoyed countless hours of exposure to their island life-style and hospitality.

Following are some comments off the top of my head, that summarize my observations after living on koh Lanta for over three months:

• A stay of less than 10 days to 2 weeks severely limits your exposure to the many opportunities available for exploring and enjoying the great variety of beaches, local restaurants and activities.
• Families are probably most comfortable in a setting that provides detached accommodations (bungalows) but a variety of activities to keep the kids happy, e.g. a swimming pool in addition to the beach, access to conveniences (shops and the local 7/11), a variety of eating establishments.
• Adults unaccompanied by children would probably enjoy the seclusion of the southern beaches and the great cuisine of the local restaurants within easy access of their resort.

Two restaurant favorites for fantastic food and ambiance are Khao Yai  (at the top of the mountain between Klong Nin and Lanta Old Town) and on the beach at Kantiang Bay, the restaurant Same Same But Different ( a short drive South from Klong Nin).

• The beaches remote from your resort are best enjoyed if you are well prepared, i.e., take bottled water, plenty of sunscreen and Aloe gel for sunburn treatment.
•  Prepare a back-pack with towels and a small first-aid kit (disinfectant and band aids) and a snack. Half-day trips are really the best approach if you don't pack a lunch.
• You will find the ocean water to be very warm (86 F, 30 C), free of current and with gentle surf. Some beaches have rocky bottoms and drop off from the shallows rather quickly, so if you have kids, be sure to monitor them closely.
• The ocean is typically clear, so underwater obstacles and terrain (the bottom substrate) can be easily observed. Snorkels, fins and masks (or swim goggles) are very handy as is a hat!

You will occasionally encounter micro-organisms in seawater that irritate the skin. They are a nuisance but harmless and can be flushed away with fresh water or a mild solution of vinegar and water.

Giant Tropical Clam (carefully re-placed precisely where found unattached to the substrate)

Avoid touching or handling dead or alive sea creatures, such as jelly-fish, crabs or the cone-shaped seashells. The seashells actually have a "stinger" (probiscus) containing an extremely poisonous toxin that can be injected into your flesh.

Crabby Critter will inflict pain if you try to touch him!

koh Ha Beach - Snorkel and Picnic (Day Trip by Lanta Garden Hill Speedboats)

A trip to koh Lanta yai is truly a retreat into a vanishing paradise. Like so many of the once remote, pristine wildernesses, whether arctic, temperate or tropical; be they alpine, desert or marine in character, these magnificent venues seem not able to escape the explosive growth of international tourism.

The "third-world's" obsession to mimic the economy of "developed" nations and Asia's exponential population growth and total disregard for environmental stewardship is slowly eroding these ecosystems' ability to sustain the variety, quantity and quality of life unique to their individual and disparate habitats.

A trip now, to koh Lanta yai, may be your last chance to see!

Sunrise

Sunset

Thai Mountains of The Golden Triangle

Introduction To The North

The provinces of northern Thailand share a common border with Myanmar, (known as Burma by its English colonizers), and Laos. The three-country border region, known in recent decades as "The Golden Triangle," became well know as the notorious and lawless enclave of opium and heroin traders.

This characterization remains accurate only to some extent these days. Never-the-less, it is prudent to penetrate these mountain retreats only with an experienced, knowledgeable guide. Said guide must not only be an adept and accomplished wilderness expert, but be conversant with and accepted by the local inhabitants of the areas you intend to visit.

Vista from a ridge-top in the mountains of northern Thailand

These rugged mountains are the home of indigenous clans who have continuously occupied their land for centuries. Other more recent occupants, fleeing atrocities of malevolent tyrants in their host countries, have also taken up residency as "refugees". An example of the latter are the "Long-neck" and sub-clans of the Lisu and Hmong people.

A trek into these mountains should be undertaken with utmost caution.

In an effort to displace the illicit trade in smuggled opium, timber, gems and wild-life (tiger, elephant and other exotic endangered species), the Thai government has encouraged development of alternative agricultural crops (most notably exotic coffees) and tourism.

Not all communities have embraced these government initiatives.

Consulting "expert" sources, I decided to seek an appropriate destination to satisfy my curiosity. Memories of stories related to me by a dear friend (who lived among the Hmong clans during the Vietnam War era), had for years, piqued my curiosity about the mountains and inhabitants of SE Asia's tropical highlands within the Golden Triangle.

Journey of Discovery

Atmospheric haze from burning rice stubble.

Seeking the Karen

The North of Thailand is characterized by it’s sweeping mountain landscapes, pristine forests, waterfalls and ancient temples.

Harvested rice terraces - "dry rice" typical of the highlands

The climate is typical of tropical mountains with clearly delineated wet and dry seasons. Winter temperatures can be cool with frosts occurring most years at higher elevations, but no snow even on the highest peaks.

The pace of life is much slower with a casual air of serenity. Another important facet are it’s people.

They are, out of necessity, communal; many "micro-clans" living an aboriginal life-style within this vast geographical region of SE Asia.

Northern Thais possess a characteristically gentle nature; their kindness and hospitality to visitors is, perhaps, a result of their peaceful surroundings in fertile and abundant nature.

 

Unexpected Special Companions

 

About the time I undertook my effort to plan a trek into the outback, I received by E-mail, a request from one of my best friends, Larry, back in the United States.

"Henry," (Larry refers to me by my middle name) "I'm sending Trish to you and I want you to make sure she has a great time in SE Asia......"

Now that, my friends,  is a gesture of supreme confidence and trust in a friendship!

Trisha and "Henry" (Don't worry, Larry - this is no fun.....NOT

Without hesitation I accepted Larry's challenge to construct, with Trish, a month's worth of exotic travel experiences for her and her cousin, Karen, who would accompany Trisha on the journey.

Their trip would coincide with my planned trek into the highlands plus I had rented an apartment in southern Thailand's Krabi Province. My plan was to stay on the island of koh Lanta yai, the center of one of the world's most spectacular tropical sea venues, for at least three months of sea-trekking, scuba diving and exploration.

With all these ingredients already "simmering" and my own planning process in motion, it became a simple task to plug a couple more bodies into the mix and make this a wonderful introduction to SE Asia for Trish and Karen.

On February 7th of 2012, I welcomed Trish and Karen at Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok and the adventure began!

A Treasure Un-earthed - Discovering "Yut"

 

This would be "yut" - Intrepid Guide and Friend

I was very fortunate in my planning to have inadvertently discovered the web-site for a Karen lodge, recently completed in the highlands, a day's trip by van from Chiang Mai. After consulting via E-mail with Trisha and Karen, we determined this a suitable option for a low-risk trek into the out-back.

After spending three days in Bangkok, waiting for my troupe of girls to recover from the long plane ride that began in North America, we embarked by train for Chiang Mai. Here we were to meet the guide who would lead us over-land, to the Karen village.

The guide we were fortunate to be assigned was "yut", whom we discovered (as my sub-title suggests), was an absolute gem. We would witness his competence as wilderness guide and teacher over the next few days as he would amaze us with the scope and depth of knowledge gained from years of experience in the northern mountains of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar.

To market, to market to buy a fat hog.....

Our early morning meet-up with yut in Chiang Mai began with a trip to a local market to purchase food for snacks and (as we were to learn later) the main course for an evening meal at our first night's camp-site.

With shopping accomplished, we began the several hours drive North. We stopped for lunch  about noon at a beautiful lakeside restaurant and enjoyed fantastic Muslim cuisine and yut previewed our afternoon hike.


An hour or so later we arrived at the trail-head from which we departed on our three hour walk through the forest to our first night's lodging.

Alright, you go first and I'll hold the towel!

Yut had meticulously planned our two-day journey overland through the forest. The first afternoon was a brief trek that would take us up and over two low ridges then follow and eventually cross a shallow stream late that first afternoon.

A short distance from the stream crossing, we reached a pleasant encampment where we would enjoy a delicious "hot meal" and spend a comfortable night sleeping under a very welcome quilt in a bed protected by mosquito-nets.

You are wondering about the need for a quilt in a tropical setting?

The night was chilly enough at the altitude we attained, that when we exhaled, our frosty breath left little puffs of condensation in the air as we walked to our tiny, but accommodating  cabins beneath a sky brilliant with stars and the sliver of a new moon.

Five-Star comfort in the northern Thai mountains

Chilly morning at base camp

The next morning we awoke before sunrise and met for a hot and hearty breakfast before departing on a long day's hike over the next two ridges, a distance of about ten kilometers. During the course of the hike, yut would pause to show and allow us to sample medicinal herbs and edible plants.

His tutoring provided some very practical side-benefits, too, as many of the succulent leaves or small fruits we sampled, provided energy or slaked our thirst along the way. (They did nothing, however, for my aching feet)!

Early morning carnage - Remnants of a shameless attack by hungry hikers!

Karen and yut at the Day 2 departure point

The terrain was for me, very reminiscent of the Appalacian Mountains. There are numerous vales between the ridges here, usually harboring a small lake or bog, or, nourished by a lively stream. It is very similar to my recollections of walking streams and brooks in the mountain "hollows" of eastern Kentucky.

Streams and hollows

Ridges and vales

Late in the afternoon we reached the site of an abandoned lumber camp. Yut had thoughtfully arranged a meet-up with an old friend who was a mahout and owned a small family of Asian Elephant.

Anticipating that we would be close to our walking limit, yut had bargained with his friend to let us ride the remaining distance (about three-and-a-half kilometers over the last steep ridge) to a picturesque valley where the Karen clan was waiting to welcome us at their new lodge.

Welcome respite from the rigors of hiking on foot.

We gratefully clamored aboard our friendly, plodding pachyderms, and continued through the bamboo and pine forest.

But, after two hours, we just as gratefully departed the swaying cradle in which we rode!

 It was amusing to observe the "childish" antics of the young elephant, who followed its Grandmother, during our short journey to the lodge.

Valley of the Karen

 

Pastures and paddys - the peace and seclusion of Thailand's Mountain clans

Arrival at the lodge

Our stay with the Karen clan in this picturesque valley was almost like living an adventure novel. Each morning we would start our day, a mug of hot coffee in hand, as the dawn gradually illuminated the sky behind a ridge that lay beyond the rice paddy and a bubbling perimeter stream. The morning sun eventually vaulted the colorful ridge, spilling its morning light into the vale below.

The warm morning air would lift mist from the stream and bath the foliage in droplets of moisture which, in turn, attracted a troupe of resident Gibbon to frolic and feast on the misty fruit in tree tops of the ridge beyond. 

Their calls, "wahhhhh-oop, wahhhhh-oop," echoed across the vale to join the scratchy voices of long-legged cranes feeding on small critters in the harvested rice paddy.

The temporary kitchen

Breakfast would magically appear from the kitchen below to remind us of the busy day yut planned for us.

Each day was a different exposure into the centuries old culture and life-style of these mountain people...a culture that gradually diminishes as it is overtaken by the inexorable advance of  emerging economies in a "modern" SE Asia.

The question suddenly occurred to me, "Is this the last chance to see...to experience the authentic culture of these hospitable and happy people who have sustained a life-style compatible with their surroundings for centuries?"

Dining with a very exotic view!

 

Last Chance To See?

 

The morning after our arrival, yut guided us to a ridge top near the so-called Golden Triangle. Nestled along the flanks of the ridge was a Lisu village that in the not-to-distant past had supported itself by cultivation of the Opium Poppy.

Lisu Village near The Golden Triangle

The Thai Government dispatched a contingent of its Army to the area and the poppy fields were destroyed.

A group of horticulturists followed to instruct Lisu on cultivation of crops replacing the poppy and its nefarious by-product (source of Lisu income). Most notable of the new crops was an exotic species of coffee. The new crops not only required a substantial learning effort on the part of the Lisu, but were also much more demanding and labor intensive.

Coffee trees and vegetable crops displaced the Opium Poppy.

Lisu plantation near The Golden Triangle, former site of Opium Poppy fields.

Labor intensive crops have replaced the Opium Poppy

A sizable contingent of the Thai military still resides in a new detachment compound near the village. The detachment's stated purpose is to patrol the international border which is infamous for its smuggling operations. More informed opinion says that the real purpose of the Army's presence is to insure the Lisu do not back-slide to previous agricultural habits.

The Lisu are not happy!

 We returned to the lodge where a much happier and content family of Karen awaited our appearance for the evening meal. Below are scenes of communal farms through which we passed on our return to the lodge. These seemed more typical of the Karen clans (as opposed to the Lisu) which we visited.

Subsistence farming - "Dry" rice and tropical fruits sustain the relaxed life-style of the mountain-dwelling Thai clans.

Cattle grazing the harvested rice paddy.

Wasted "farang" bodies - trekking and elephant rides finally extracted its toll!

After the meal and a hour or so of relaxation, we joined the families and all the kids for a giant bonfire with dancing, singing and just plain family fun. We laughed, danced and played until the bonfire was reduced to glowing embers. The laughter and giggles of the children slowly ebbed and at this conclusion of a very long day, which had begun with morning calls of the Gibbon troupe, we retired inside the safe confines of our mosquito net protected sleeping platforms.

Two days of long walks up and over forested ridges, clambering over make-shift foot-bridges crossing the occasional stream and then the two-hour ride atop swaying elephants, finally levied its toll on my fatigued, old carcass.

I collapsed and slept without twitching a muscle (I'm sure) the entire night!

Ritual of the Shaman

 

It was as if each day, yut was "self-challenged" to out-do his performance of the day previous. On day three of our stay at the lodge, again, after a beautiful sunrise and huge breakfast, we packed our gear, bade our farewell to the lovely Karen who had hosted us, and began the long trek back to Chiang Mai.

What we did not know, was the surprise yut had plotted to entertain us along the way.

The road to Chiang Mai - challenging terrain in the northern highlands of Thailand, near the infamous "Golden Triangle

Wai - Thailand's ubiquitous beast of burden

After an approximately one-hour bumpy-jerky-lurching ride by 4 X 4 vehicle, we arrived at a junction where the dirt track joined a paved road. Here, high in the hills above a beautiful stream, we disembarked the vehicle in the center of a bustling community comprised of, perhaps, two dozen Karen families.

Lively it was! There were kids and pigs, chickens and buffalo scurrying hither-and-yon, and, amidst all of this were the adults going about their daily ritual(s).

Village Life

All generations share the same roof.

The family livestock also share the same roof...but under the floor of the main living area!

Pounding the chaf from rice

The population of mountain clans rarely (if ever) experience a life-style beyond that which they have maintained for century-upon-century.

I have no knowledge of their "life-expectancy" in terms of longevity or what are their social - material expectations.

The vast majority of individuals with whom we were privileged to interact, appeared healthy and happy.

As a matter of fact, while we were visiting the village, a government medical team was circulating through the village providing inoculations to the children.

I don't recall inquiring of yut the educational opportunity for the children, but I did observe many boarding schools in communities through which we passed along the way. I speculate that the children are transported to the schools, provided board and room and a "basic" education, periodically returning to their home village.

In many ways, it seems incongruous to me, that "western civilization" considers these "primitive" and/or "third-world" cultures and societies.

Why is it, that just because these happy, self-sufficient people choose to march to the beat of a different drum, that we feel compelled...even obligated...to export our religion, our politics and our economy, there-by disrupting their traditions and life-style?

The Welcome

Karen communal structure mimics that which has been traditional for untold generations. One of the principal (if not the principal) elders in the community is the Shaman. Few activities, be they social, religious or just part of daily work and existence, are contemplated without consultation and advice from the Shaman. 

His knowledge, his perceived "extra-sensory powers" and his experience and wisdom are unquestioned.

Therefore, it was essential that yut present us to the Shaman to receive his "blessing" and expression of hospitality before spending time with the families in and about the village. We were ushered by invitation of the Shaman's wife, into the upper room of their house, a teak structure perched on stilts.

The interior of the upper portion of their home contained a cooking area, a sleeping/socializing area and one partitioned corner where their daughter and her infant had a private sleeping area.

The floor was supported by hand-hewn "joists", overlaid with thick planks and covered with woven bamboo mats upon which small carpets of colorful material were laid. A large platter was placed in the middle of this area and we were invited to arrange our bodies in a circle around it.

The Shaman's wife, in a gesture of welcome and hospitality, had prepared a small arrangement of "snacks" which was placed on the platter and we were invited to help ourselves. After a brief interlude of conversation between yut and the Shaman, additional paraphernalia was placed on the table.

This paraphernalia consisted of spun thread, a small bowl of un-cooked rice, wafers and small sausages. A pipe-like smoking instrument was also laid on the hand-painted plate.

The Shaman closed his eyes and for a few moments quietly chanted a welcoming litany. As he concluded the chant, with opened eyes, he gesticulted, pointing the pipe (which he held in his hand) at each one of us in succession. As he uttered the last word of his chant, the pipe stopped, pointing at one individual.

That individual was me!

The thought raced through my mind...what could this possibly mean? Am I banned, am I welcome, will I turn into an inanimate object or be reduced to a wretched, writhing creature!!?? The Shaman's expression was totally...and I mean totally...devoid of expression as he gazed deeply into my eyes. Then...he slowly lifted the cup of liquid which had been sitting on the platter and offered the cup to me.

Yut quietly instructed me to accept the cup with both hands and to immediately consume, in one swig, the contents of the cup!

Now...I have heard all sorts of stories about primitive rituals and the food and/or drink associated with said rituals. The memory of those stories and legends did not provoke any great curiosity or desire on my part, to consume the contents of the cup which I now held in my hands, but I did!

The liquid was warm (not necessarily an encouraging sign); it was a golden/amber color (definitely not an encouraging sign); but...was pleasantly tasty...a nut-like flavor and slightly sweet (a moment of immense relief swept over me)!

My anxiety now diminished, I inquired of yut, what was the cup's content which I had just consumed? 

yut informed me that, first; It would have been an affront to the Shaman and his stature in the community if I had refused to consume the contents of the cup; secondly, the entire party of guests would have been shamed; and lastly, the contents were a "home-made" recipe, (unique to this village), of fermented rice-wine, produced from the very rice grown in the village paddy.

 The recipe is sort of like the great Coca-Cola secret recipe, and is passed on from Shaman to Shaman as part of an historic ritual; the recipe never revealed to a curious "audience."

The Shaman - stoic and tattoed - and his wife

A special bond - two hearts, two hearths, two cultures

Yut assured me, I had done well, we were officially accepted by the Shaman into the clan's presence and now had "license" to visit this village anytime.

To demonstrate our acceptance, the Shaman's wife took the woven thread and made a small bracelet which she placed on one wrist of each person.

Then she placed the grains of un-cooked rice in her hand, tossing some over each one of us. (This has some connection with fertility, a scary thought at my age)!

The grains of rice were retrieved and individually packaged for each one of us.  The Shaman's incantation  over the rice, was to ensure a fruitful, healthy and long life for the person in its possession.

(The rice remains with me even to this day)!

At the conclusion of our visit, the Shaman's wife insisted she be photographed with Trish. This photo is the ultimate expression of two women, understanding a common gift; recognizing their respective femininity and role(s) as maternal keepers of their respective clans. 

Well done Trish!

Faces and Places - Highland Odyssey Photos

 

The trail starts here!

Then it goes up and over this way...

Along the top of this ridge...

and we'll cross that little foot-bridge and spend the night here....whew!

So put on a happy face...it's time to discover what I've cooked for dinner!

I think yut said the trail was over this way..........

Oh......it's up there behind the loafing shed.

Were we here yesterday ??????

                                                 Nope...different fence and we don't have to climb over this one!

                  Come on...it's not that much of a climb!

The heck it isn't.... (pant pant)....any steeper and we'd need rock-climbing gear! 

Edible plants and herbs

occasional dead birds...

Incredible flowering trees

Elephants walking a pace that they please!

Will my feet ever be the same?

Postlude

 

The mountain people apparently do not feel compelled to seek or evolve a life of material enrichment beyond that which their current environment provides. Is it only because they have lacked exposure to the life-style and materialism of their distant, metropolitan cousins?

Why is it that the distant cousins are so "hell-bent" to impose their life-style of materialistic consumerism on these mountain clans?

Perhaps it would be more prudent to promote preservation of the highlands and, therefore, the attendant life-style of these clans, there-by assuring continuation of the indigenous peoples culture and life-style which, at present, still remains in harmonious synchrony with their environment.

Monsoon rain nourishes the thirsty highlands

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: I'm indebted to Trisha for access to and use of many photos from her collection for inclusion in this post.