A Personal Inventory - Extraordinary Venues and Service
I have now lived off-and-on and traveled Thailand for over two years. Every region with the exception of the troubled southern-most region in-and-around Pattani and the northern-most region of Issan have been traversed on multiple occasions.
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| Chakri Dynasty Royal Barge with the Royal Palace Complex in the Background |
During these excursions, I have benefited from the advice and experience of seasoned Thai travelers and my many Thai friends and acquaintances who are intimately familiar with places, people and venues of uncommon interest and quality.
Some of these soirees have been the subject of previous blog posts. Now, I want to highlight specific facilities and organizations that provide(d), in my estimation, a very high-quality experience at a very reasonable price and, in a very congenial (typical Thai) atmosphere.
Transportation
My choice(s) of air transportation are dictated, in order of priority, by the following: safety record, distance I am traveling (domestic or international), price/service/comfort.
Domestic and Near SE Asia Flights
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| Air Asia - Safe, Comfortable, Economical |
AirAsia currently flies one of the most modern all-Airbus fleets in the world, it is meticulously maintained and experienced cockpit crews are heavily recruited from airlines in the U.S. and Europe. All of the cockpit and cabin crews are multi-lingual.
All Bangkok transfers and departures destined for domestic airports (Thailand), depart from Don Mueng International airport. International departures are from Suvarnabhumi International Airport.
Traffic congestion in Bangkok is legendary, so leave for your airport of departure very early to avoid missing your flight. Both airports have extensive comfort, eating and shopping opportunities to mitigate the inconvenience of an early arrival.
AirAsia is a "no-frills" airline, so when you plan your booking (on-line) read carefully all of the fine print ! Their service is exceptional but in very high demand. Book early and sneak a box lunch of your own choosing aboard! (Most of my destinations have been less than 3 hours in flight time, so not even food was an issue).
In mid-April of 2013, Lion Air of Indonesia experienced another air liner crash as it approached the Densapar Airport on Bali. The Indonesian airlines have had a dismal air safety record, experiencing many accidents, fatalities and "near-misses" in the recent past.
Five pilots from Lion Air have been arrested for illicit drug use in the past two years. Lion Air is currently banned from flying to Europe due to broader safety lapses in the Indonesian airline industry that have long plagued the country. Last year, a Russian-made Sukhoi Superjet-100 slammed into a volcano during a demonstration flight, killing all 45 people on board.
Read more about flying in adjacent States here.
Another airline with a dismal record of service and safety, including the equipment and operating personnel, is the Russian airline Aeroflot. Here is another recent example of the risks associated with flying Russian airlines. Pay particular attention to the last two paragraphs of the AP wire service article.
When traveling to-and-from Eastern Europe and SE Asia the best I have experienced is Emirates and Air France, though the ground service from Air France can test your patience at times.
JAL/United and Korean (Korean providing the best service I've experienced), are my personal preference(s) between North America and SE Asia. Once the Boeing 787 is in full service, this opinion my change.
I believe it is prudent to check the safety record of any International or domestic airline prior to booking regardless of the location from where you will be traveling. This is not paranoia...it just makes sense to be aware of your personal travel safety and the risks involved.
Finally, although not related to air line safety and service, I have found Airfarewatchdog to be an invaluable travel planning resource. If you have considerable time in advance of your trip, this service will browse all the booking web sites to filter the optimum price options for your air travel.
Most tourists arrive Thailand at the Suvarnabhumi International airport, making Bangkok their travel hub (at least in the short term).
The main train terminal in Bangkok is Hualamphong which is easily accessed by the elevated railway (BTS map) and underground subway (MRT map) from the most popular and frequented tourist facilities in the megacity that is Bangkok.
All North / Northeast-bound
trains make a stop at a small station opposite Bangkok's Don Muang Airport (50 minutes
from central Bangkok). Don Muang Rail Station is perfect for direct air / rail
connections to those destinations, so you can avoid Central Bangkok altogether.
I definitely recommend you book in advance your train reservation. Make sure you reserve the private roomette, the 1st or the 2nd class A/C seats or you will regret having chosen train travel as an alternate to air!
Here is a good overview of what you can expect to experience; the trains, facilities and services provided by the Thai railway system.
A great way to maximize your time for daytime activities, then arriving refreshed at your next destination for another day of local sightseeing, is to book one of the over-night sleepers
The food on the trains is equal to or less than the worst airline food I have experienced. The only exception is the pricey glamour train that runs between Bangkok and Singapore. Therefore, I recommend a tasty Thai meal at Hualamphong Station before departure and purchase a bag of goodies at the Station's mini-market on which to snack along the way!
There is a "Club Car" on most of the trains where refreshments and drinks may be purchased. Smoking is not permitted in the coaches, but the Club Car seems to be forgiving, so be forewarned if you are sensitive to smoke.
Many "businesses" (especially jewellry and clothing outlets) pay a fuel commission to the taxi drivers to bring tourists to their high-pressure and sometimes "less-than-legitimate" shops.
When you select a taxi and have entered the vehicle, make sure that the meter is tripped. This is extremely important, as many of the taxi "scammers" will tell you that they will take you to your destination for less than the meter. Don't believe it!
Suffice-it-to-say, taxi fares in Bangkok are very reasonable, most inner-city destinations less than 150 baht (about 5 USD). Here is a handy estimator for determining taxi fares in advance, assuming you have access to Google maps and know the address of your start-point and destination.
The great majority of Bangkok's inner-city lodging, shopping and venues of particular cultural and historic significance, can be easily accessed via one of the two Sky train routes. Once you have arrived at the BTS Station closest to your intended destination, it is a short walk, taxi or tuk-tuk ride to your destination.
BTS maps are readily available and are an indispensable resource if you are spending more than a day-or-two in the city.
The traffic congestion in Bangkok begins around 7 a.m. and does not diminish until very late in the day...at least 10 p.m. at night.
It requires considerable time to travel short distances by taxi, so whenever possible take one of the frequent Skytrains (arrivals every 2-4 minutes) to a point close to your intended destination. It will save you time and money.
Most fares are less than 30 baht (1 USD).
Again...a word of caution. Tuk tuk operators are notorious for "gouging" the gullible tourist, so make sure you barter the fare to your destination before entering the tuk tuk. The tuk tuk fare is frequently more expensive than hailing a taxi to go the same short distance, if the taxi driver can be humored into a "short-haul."
One of my favorite tuk tuk experiences, was a tour of the "Old City" in Chiang Mai, It was immensely informative and entertaining. You can learn about and access Paul's Chiang Mai Tuk tuk tour here or here. Paul's Email address is: besttuktuktours@yahoo.com.
Tickets can be purchased on-line here.
Here is another web site that might be helpful in selecting a tour operator.
The drivers of mini-vans and limousines, are grossly underpaid by the tour operator(s) and are forced to press their luck with speed and daring maneuvers on the roadway, to gain time advantages in order to multiply the number of daily round-trips in an operating day.
The drivers often work 12-16 hours a day and attempt to maintain an alert state of mind by consuming "speed" or other dangerous substances to stay awake.
It is far too frequent the Police must witness tragic scenes such as this as a result
I recall one terrifying three hour trip, from Hua Hin to Bangkok in a minivan stuffed to the gills with merchandise, eight fares plus the driver.
We charged down the freeway at death defying speeds.
I glanced at the speedometer several times (until I couldn't bare to look anymore) and witnessed speeds between 130-140 kph, often following within 10 meters or less of a leading vehicle. We frequently swerved around vehicles and occasionally encroached on the road shoulder.
I was so relieved and shaken by the time we reached the traffic jams approaching Bangkok proper, that I swore to never, never book a mini-van again...and I haven't (with one exception that cannot be avoided).
That exception is my frequent trips to Krabi's koh Lanta yai to visit my island friends who reside there. In a previous blog (Thailand's Krabi Province) I provide the name of a reputable tour operator (Black Tiger Tours) and instructions for reaching him to book transportation from the Krabi Air Terminal to koh Lanta yai and Ao Nang.
A simple, straightforward recommendation: Don't be tempted to do it (rent, that is), unless you have extensive riding experience, have the motorcycle endorsement on your driver license, and, appropriate vehicle insurance...including all the "bells-and-whistles" like Collision, Bodily Injury, Disability, Death, Comprehensive and Liability.
Here is, perhaps, the most compelling reason to control your urge to rent a motorbike or tuk tuk.
(data Oct 2011-Sept 2012)
To date, I have only utilized two "ferry" services: government vehicle ferry to koh Lanta noi and koh Lanta yai, and, the private Lompraya high-speed catamaran (passenger only) service between Chumpon and koh Tao.
Lompraya provides on-line booking and ticketing. You can schedule and book your travel with Lompraya here. They also provide integrated Land/Sea service from Bangkok which is very cost-effective and gurantees all your inter-connections are accomplished without fail.
Their service is very efficient and given reasonable sea conditions, the trip from Chumpon to koh Tao takes about a two hour run. The interior seating is similar to airline economy class, but with more leg room. Beverages and snacks can be purchased on board, but I suggest you may want to carry a bottle of water for the voyage.
If you are prone to motion sickness, be prepared with a prescription or over-the-counter remedy to guarantee your comfort. Take the medication in advance of your voyage.
The only down-side to the vessel I was on, was the disgusting oder and filth in the "heads." Be sure to visit the shore side terminal's comfort station (hawng nam) before embarking on the 2-3 three hour voyage to your destination.
The ferry between koh Lanta noi and koh Lanta yai is scheduled to be replaced by the bridge currently under construction connecting the two islands. The bridge opening is scheduled before the tourist "high-season" in 2014. (Schedules are "flexible" in Thailand, so don't hold your breath)!
In order of personal preference, these are the three organizations : Agoda, Sawadee, and LateStays. I put LateStays as third only because I rarely encounter a situation where I have not planned well in advance, my preferred lodging.
NOTE: When traveling in Europe, I generally try to book an apartment, cottage or pensione, as my stay is generally for an extended period, e.g., Cadiz, Spain. I have found HomeAway to be a very competent resource for those bookings.
My experience with TripAdvisor in SE Asia has been "eclectic" at best. I have found the Agoda web-site far more accurate in their description and visual representation of facilities. I will typically search the local environs on my own recognizance while staying in various venues, taking notes on where to stay on future trips to the same location.
Some of my favorites will be presented in Thailand Secrets - Part II. I will be describing lodging, restaurants and guide services where I have traveled, including Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Hua Hin, koh Tao, Ao Nang, Koh Lanta, Yasothon, koh Samet and the northwestern highlands of the Golden Triangle.
Word of Caution
In mid-April of 2013, Lion Air of Indonesia experienced another air liner crash as it approached the Densapar Airport on Bali. The Indonesian airlines have had a dismal air safety record, experiencing many accidents, fatalities and "near-misses" in the recent past.
Five pilots from Lion Air have been arrested for illicit drug use in the past two years. Lion Air is currently banned from flying to Europe due to broader safety lapses in the Indonesian airline industry that have long plagued the country. Last year, a Russian-made Sukhoi Superjet-100 slammed into a volcano during a demonstration flight, killing all 45 people on board.
Read more about flying in adjacent States here.
Another airline with a dismal record of service and safety, including the equipment and operating personnel, is the Russian airline Aeroflot. Here is another recent example of the risks associated with flying Russian airlines. Pay particular attention to the last two paragraphs of the AP wire service article.
When traveling to-and-from Eastern Europe and SE Asia the best I have experienced is Emirates and Air France, though the ground service from Air France can test your patience at times.
JAL/United and Korean (Korean providing the best service I've experienced), are my personal preference(s) between North America and SE Asia. Once the Boeing 787 is in full service, this opinion my change.
I believe it is prudent to check the safety record of any International or domestic airline prior to booking regardless of the location from where you will be traveling. This is not paranoia...it just makes sense to be aware of your personal travel safety and the risks involved.
Finally, although not related to air line safety and service, I have found Airfarewatchdog to be an invaluable travel planning resource. If you have considerable time in advance of your trip, this service will browse all the booking web sites to filter the optimum price options for your air travel.
Train Travel In Thailand
Travel by train in Thailand is economical and a great way to experience the stunning pastoral, coastal and mountain scenery of this geologically diverse country. A most useful trip-planning web-site for train travel, can be found here.
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| River crossing on the Malay Peninsula |
The main train terminal in Bangkok is Hualamphong which is easily accessed by the elevated railway (BTS map) and underground subway (MRT map) from the most popular and frequented tourist facilities in the megacity that is Bangkok.
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| Hua Hin Station - Southwestern Coast of the Gulf of Thailand |
I definitely recommend you book in advance your train reservation. Make sure you reserve the private roomette, the 1st or the 2nd class A/C seats or you will regret having chosen train travel as an alternate to air!
What are Thai trains like?
Again, a word of CAUTION! As of this August 2013 up-date, The Thai State Railway has experienced a number of derailments this calendar year. Two recent derailments en route to Chiang Mai have injured several tourists and the state of the roadbed is now being questioned.
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| These narrow gauge trains will be replaced within the next five years with high-speed bullet trains running North, South and East from Bangkok. |
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| Coach cars at rest under the canopy of Hualamphong Station, Central Bangkok |
Here is a good overview of what you can expect to experience; the trains, facilities and services provided by the Thai railway system.
A great way to maximize your time for daytime activities, then arriving refreshed at your next destination for another day of local sightseeing, is to book one of the over-night sleepers
The food on the trains is equal to or less than the worst airline food I have experienced. The only exception is the pricey glamour train that runs between Bangkok and Singapore. Therefore, I recommend a tasty Thai meal at Hualamphong Station before departure and purchase a bag of goodies at the Station's mini-market on which to snack along the way!
There is a "Club Car" on most of the trains where refreshments and drinks may be purchased. Smoking is not permitted in the coaches, but the Club Car seems to be forgiving, so be forewarned if you are sensitive to smoke.
Taxi, BTS, Bus, Tuk-Tuk, Limo, Motorbike
TAXI
The most reliable method of traveling point-to-point in Bangkok is the "Metered Taxi." A note of caution: Before entering a taxi cab, make sure you tell the driver your intended destination...and that he understands there are to be no intermediate stops.
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| The ubiquitous Bangkok taxi |
When you select a taxi and have entered the vehicle, make sure that the meter is tripped. This is extremely important, as many of the taxi "scammers" will tell you that they will take you to your destination for less than the meter. Don't believe it!
Suffice-it-to-say, taxi fares in Bangkok are very reasonable, most inner-city destinations less than 150 baht (about 5 USD). Here is a handy estimator for determining taxi fares in advance, assuming you have access to Google maps and know the address of your start-point and destination.
BTS (Bangkok Transit System aka Skytrain)
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| BTS Skytrain - Fast, clean, AC, very economical |
BTS maps are readily available and are an indispensable resource if you are spending more than a day-or-two in the city.
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| Bangkok traffic congestion is legendary |
It requires considerable time to travel short distances by taxi, so whenever possible take one of the frequent Skytrains (arrivals every 2-4 minutes) to a point close to your intended destination. It will save you time and money.
Most fares are less than 30 baht (1 USD).
Tuk Tuk
The tuk tuk is Bangkok's famous mini-cab. They are an entertaining short distance option for neighborhood travel. I do not recommend tuk tuk travel beyond the neighborhood in which they operate, e.g., China Town.
Again...a word of caution. Tuk tuk operators are notorious for "gouging" the gullible tourist, so make sure you barter the fare to your destination before entering the tuk tuk. The tuk tuk fare is frequently more expensive than hailing a taxi to go the same short distance, if the taxi driver can be humored into a "short-haul."
One of my favorite tuk tuk experiences, was a tour of the "Old City" in Chiang Mai, It was immensely informative and entertaining. You can learn about and access Paul's Chiang Mai Tuk tuk tour here or here. Paul's Email address is: besttuktuktours@yahoo.com.
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| Tuk-tuk mini-taxis are an entertaining short distance option |
Bus or Limo
There are three departure stations for the State operated long distance buses. Departure for the Malay Peninsula and points South of Bangkok (Hua Hin, Samui, Krabi and Phuket) leave from the Southern Station. Departures for North and East (Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Rayong, Yasothon, Chiang Rai) leave from the Northern Terminal.
Tickets can be purchased on-line here.
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| Exterior - Government Bus |
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| Interior - Government Bus |
I highly recommend you book only the VIP coaches if you choose to travel on the Government bus. There are innumerable private tour companies which also offer luxury coach services. You may want to contact the TAT office (Tourism Authority of Thailand) nearest your domicile while in Bangkok to get a list of properly licensed and inspected private operators.
Here is another web site that might be helpful in selecting a tour operator.
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| Private Luxury Coach |
Limousine/Van
There may be occasions when you have no transportation alternative other than by limousine or mini-van. Sadly, it has to be said, these vehicles are involved in a very high percentage of fatal accidents on the highways and by-ways of Thailand.
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| Typical mini-van carrying 8-12 passengers plus the driver |
The drivers of mini-vans and limousines, are grossly underpaid by the tour operator(s) and are forced to press their luck with speed and daring maneuvers on the roadway, to gain time advantages in order to multiply the number of daily round-trips in an operating day.
The drivers often work 12-16 hours a day and attempt to maintain an alert state of mind by consuming "speed" or other dangerous substances to stay awake.
It is far too frequent the Police must witness tragic scenes such as this as a result
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| No Survivors |
I recall one terrifying three hour trip, from Hua Hin to Bangkok in a minivan stuffed to the gills with merchandise, eight fares plus the driver.
 |
| One of dozens that annually don't survive the trip |
I glanced at the speedometer several times (until I couldn't bare to look anymore) and witnessed speeds between 130-140 kph, often following within 10 meters or less of a leading vehicle. We frequently swerved around vehicles and occasionally encroached on the road shoulder.
I was so relieved and shaken by the time we reached the traffic jams approaching Bangkok proper, that I swore to never, never book a mini-van again...and I haven't (with one exception that cannot be avoided).
That exception is my frequent trips to Krabi's koh Lanta yai to visit my island friends who reside there. In a previous blog (Thailand's Krabi Province) I provide the name of a reputable tour operator (Black Tiger Tours) and instructions for reaching him to book transportation from the Krabi Air Terminal to koh Lanta yai and Ao Nang.
Motorbikes
A simple, straightforward recommendation: Don't be tempted to do it (rent, that is), unless you have extensive riding experience, have the motorcycle endorsement on your driver license, and, appropriate vehicle insurance...including all the "bells-and-whistles" like Collision, Bodily Injury, Disability, Death, Comprehensive and Liability.
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| Typical Bangkok intersection scene |
| Number of transport vehicles in Bangkok and rest of Thailand (Dec. 2012) | ||
| Bangkok : | Rest of Thailand : | |
| Personal Cars : | 2,972,305 | 2,884,149 |
| Pick-up Trucks : | 1,089,131 | 4,348,857 |
| Motorcycles : | 2,846,690 | 16,177,061 |
Distribution of the type of vehicles in Bangkok and the rest of Thailand, explains partly the graph above.
You can see that there are about the same number of traffic accidents (2012) in Bangkok and in the rest of the country all provinces combined. In Bangkok, proportionally more personal cars are involved in accidents, while in the 'countryside' pickups feature more prominently. Taking into account the number of motorcycles in Bangkok and the whole country, there are proportionally more accidents involving motorcycles in the capital.
In any case, the number of accidents in Bangkok itself when compared with the whole of the country, is rather striking. Maybe there is much more reporting of traffic accidents in the capital. After all, there is substantial pressure, each time even small accidents occur, because drivers want the streets cleared (and traffic resumed), which often necessitates police involvement.
You can see that there are about the same number of traffic accidents (2012) in Bangkok and in the rest of the country all provinces combined. In Bangkok, proportionally more personal cars are involved in accidents, while in the 'countryside' pickups feature more prominently. Taking into account the number of motorcycles in Bangkok and the whole country, there are proportionally more accidents involving motorcycles in the capital.
In any case, the number of accidents in Bangkok itself when compared with the whole of the country, is rather striking. Maybe there is much more reporting of traffic accidents in the capital. After all, there is substantial pressure, each time even small accidents occur, because drivers want the streets cleared (and traffic resumed), which often necessitates police involvement.
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| A scene far too typical |
Travel By Sea
We have covered all the various air and ground transportation modes, but what about reaching the countless beautiful island resorts and beaches of Thailand's Gulf coast and Andaman Sea?
To date, I have only utilized two "ferry" services: government vehicle ferry to koh Lanta noi and koh Lanta yai, and, the private Lompraya high-speed catamaran (passenger only) service between Chumpon and koh Tao.
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| Lompraya's high-speed catamaran service to koh Samui, koh Tao and Southwest Gulf venues |
Lompraya provides on-line booking and ticketing. You can schedule and book your travel with Lompraya here. They also provide integrated Land/Sea service from Bangkok which is very cost-effective and gurantees all your inter-connections are accomplished without fail.
Their service is very efficient and given reasonable sea conditions, the trip from Chumpon to koh Tao takes about a two hour run. The interior seating is similar to airline economy class, but with more leg room. Beverages and snacks can be purchased on board, but I suggest you may want to carry a bottle of water for the voyage.
If you are prone to motion sickness, be prepared with a prescription or over-the-counter remedy to guarantee your comfort. Take the medication in advance of your voyage.
The only down-side to the vessel I was on, was the disgusting oder and filth in the "heads." Be sure to visit the shore side terminal's comfort station (hawng nam) before embarking on the 2-3 three hour voyage to your destination.
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| Government vehicle ferry to koh Lanta noi and koh Lanta yai. |
The ferry between koh Lanta noi and koh Lanta yai is scheduled to be replaced by the bridge currently under construction connecting the two islands. The bridge opening is scheduled before the tourist "high-season" in 2014. (Schedules are "flexible" in Thailand, so don't hold your breath)!
Reservation and Booking Services
I have used three different services to book lodging while traveling in SE Asia. Each has provided secure, timely service and the one time I experienced a late-night arrival problem, it was quickly solved by the Sawadee representative, on my behalf, with one phone call.
In order of personal preference, these are the three organizations : Agoda, Sawadee, and LateStays. I put LateStays as third only because I rarely encounter a situation where I have not planned well in advance, my preferred lodging.
NOTE: When traveling in Europe, I generally try to book an apartment, cottage or pensione, as my stay is generally for an extended period, e.g., Cadiz, Spain. I have found HomeAway to be a very competent resource for those bookings.
My experience with TripAdvisor in SE Asia has been "eclectic" at best. I have found the Agoda web-site far more accurate in their description and visual representation of facilities. I will typically search the local environs on my own recognizance while staying in various venues, taking notes on where to stay on future trips to the same location.
Some of my favorites will be presented in Thailand Secrets - Part II. I will be describing lodging, restaurants and guide services where I have traveled, including Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Hua Hin, koh Tao, Ao Nang, Koh Lanta, Yasothon, koh Samet and the northwestern highlands of the Golden Triangle.
