Donostia (San Sebastian) - Part I

The trip from Haro (Rioja region) is only a couple hours and very beautiful. You make several stops along the way, at Basque villages nestled in valleys or on the flanks of the Pyrenees. It is lush and green and extremely photogenic. Alas, I was behind the reflective glass of the coach windows, so it was difficult to take photos of the many picturesque Basque vincas nestled in the meadows and ravines of the beautiful Pyrenees foothills!

The café con leche at the bakery is awesome! (So is the Barista)

I arrived Donostia shortly after mid-morning and quickly discovered the City's immense charm; it is unbelievable...ancient and modern all at once. My pensione is absolutely terrific. I am situated in the Old City and within 500 meters in any direction are beaches, two harbors full of anchored pleasure craft (no commercial ships other than tourist and rescue craft apparent here), tons of eating places and an amazing bakery that rivals Cadiz!

The first evening in Donostia, I decided to get a bit more 'native' and find a local place to watch España take on Croatia in the Euro Cup futbol match (clad in a new España jersey of course!).

I searched for just the right pinxtos (peen-chos) bar, one with succulent lamb skewers, at least one litre of delectable tinto Muga and an LCD screen on which to watch the game.

My quest successful, I joined a lively crowd of Donostians to watch the match.

El Día Siguiente (The Next Day)

Each day keeps getting better...despite a bit of rain. Said rain abated about 10 a.m. this morning, so I ventured forth in my new Spanish leather foot-gear which is now stretched to a comfortable enough extent that I can hike for hours without incurring painful blisters.

Donostia is a delight for those who enjoy a vigorous walk-about. Today I scrambled up the old rock stairways to the mountain peak that separates the two harbors and their entrances. The summit has a gigantic statue of Saint Sebastian, under whose watchful eye, the City was defended by four small citadels one on either side of each harbor.



The cannon emplacements were at successively higher levels, four emplacements in this case, housing several cannon. Formidable, crossing fire-power that successfully defended the harbor for centuries!







The highest emplacement is probably close to a thousand feet above the harbor entrance and, at one time, was populated by huge cannon. It had to be an amazing feat to first, provide an access up the steep slopes, transport tons of stone up the mountain to build citadels, revetments and gun emplacements, and then, haul all the cannon, ammunition and stores up the mountain as well!



The views are dramatic and breathtaking. Tomorrow, my plan is to hike the other harbor's magnificent beach perimeter and scramble up the mountain's opposite side. After that, I'll search the barrios, do some window-shopping and sample some more Basque cuisine...maybe even have a glass or two of local wine.







I'll attempt some more photos and try to describe the Basque food...although I probably can't find enough superlatives to describe the subtle and unique, herb-enhanced flavors of the Basque pinxtos and raciones. I may succumb from gluttony before it's time to leave!

I wonder, what will the next day bring?