Chiang Mai - Gateway to Northern Thailand

Transportation Alternatives

 

Introduction

Karen children at play

This will be the first (of at least two) posts on northern Thailand. In a subsequent post, I want to share with you the story of my Thai friend, yut, and our trek into far and high places where we visited several mountain enclaves of the reclusive Karen and Lisu clans.

NOTE: All Thai are referred to by their "nickname," which is never capitalized (as in "yut" in the previous paragraph).

But now, my introduction to the second largest city in Thailand, the justifiably popular, Chiang Mai.

 

 

Train or Plane

 

I have journeyed to Chiang Mai by air and rail. Certainly air is the preferred mode if time is a constraint, but the option of rail is also a very pleasant alternative. Travel by train is very economical and there are two different options from which to choose:

• Overnight sleeping coach - The over-night train leaves Bangkok in the evening and arrives Chiang Mai the following morning. You can find the schedule(s) and photos of the different sleeping accommodations at the link provided above.
• Day-Coach - This is a fun way to see the agricultural (rice) country as-well-as wind your way up and over the mountains that separate the Ping River valley and Chiang Mai from the central provinces of Thailand's Chao Phraya flood plain.

 

Rice paddy along railroad right-of-way

Mountains South of Chiang Mai

The train trip does take several hours so if your schedule is prohibitively tight, AsiaAir is the most expedient option. Chiang Mai flights from Bangkok's DON MUENG International Airport are frequent and very economical.

The airport in Chiang Mai is very user friendly (as is the train terminal) and transportation into the city from the airport is readily available.

Ping River

Tale of Two Cities - Old and Contemporary

 

The accurately documented history of Chiang Mai reaches back several centuries. For an instructional visual journey that steps you forward from the 13th Century to modern times, you must visit the old Chiang Mai City Hall.

The City administration maintains a series of beautiful exhibits and displays which artistically narrate the history and development of Chiang Mai (and the surrounding region).  If you are planning to spend several days in this region, I highly recommend touring the Old City Hall's exhibits for a thorough orientation.

Chiang Mai is the largest and most culturally significant city in northern Thailand, and former capital of the Lanna Kingdom (1296–1768). It was considered a "subsidiary" Kingdom of Thailand from 1774 until its integration in 1939. It is located along the Ping River, a major tributary of the Chao Phraya River, 435 miles (700 kilometers) north of Bangkok, nestled among the highest mountains in the country.

It is significant to note, Chiang Mai is the only tourist destination in Thailand to have made Trip Advisor's 2012 list of the  "25 Best Destinations in the World." Chiang Mai was number 24.

Inside The Moat - The "Old City"

The area of Chiang Mai which lies inside the moat and what remains of the ancient wall, are colloquially know as "The Old City". The Old City provides a very relaxed atmosphere compared to the frenetic pace of Bangkok.

The moat isolates the 1.5 Square Kilometer Old City from Greater Chiang Mai

There are numerous "boutique" guest houses sprinkled within the approximately 1.5 square kilometer area inside the moat. All of the guest houses are within easy walking distance of the numerous wats, restaurants, markets and the ubiquitous massage establishments.

One of my favorite guest houses (I have been a repeat customer), is the Anoma Boutique Guest House. Unfortunately, their very attractive web-site has a Google caution attached, that warns of potential intrusion by "malicious software." Therefore, I strongly suggest you access Anoma's information through a booking service such as Agoda.

Agoda will provide information on several other lodging venues, but I have found that a walking tour of the old city reveals additional, very appealing alternatives that may not be listed on "booking" web-sites.

If you have the time, exploring for your own lodging can lead to a more economical, satisfying and personal experience.

Scheduling A local Itinerary

 

Hand-made articles of world-famous Thai silk

Chiang Mai's "Old City" is very compact and the ideal setting for a "walking tour." One of the highlights of a Chiang Mai visit, is the Sunday Walking Street.

This weekly event draws all the artisans from numerous villages and mountain enclaves to market their beautiful, hand-made trinkets, clothing, weaving, basketry...the list is exhaustive!

The market is reserved for local artisans. Mass-produced "factory" items are not admitted access to this venue.

Intricate patterns and designs produced on hand-made looms for the Sunday Walking Street market of Chiang Mai

As the name implies, this event is Sunday.  I always plan my itinerary to make this my last activity in Chiang Mai. I'm not wanting to pack my purchases around the region for a week or ten days. You might want to consider taking or buying an extra valise in which to transport your booty!

Antiquities and Wats

 

It seems that around every corner in Chiang Mai, is located a wat (Buddhist Temple). Many date from the 15th or 16th century and remnants of original structures, some in serviceable repair, are very accessible. I would recommend at least two days should be dedicated to a casual stroll through the inner confines of the "Old City" to view and appreciate the scope and magnitude of Chiang Mai's influence in this region of SE Asia for half a millennium.

Dawn has bathed this Buddhist Shrine in morning light for more than half-a-millennium

The artistry, architecture and historical significance is breathtaking.

Beyond the Ancient Wall and Moat 

 

Greater Chiang Mai

 

There are countless venues of great interest in or near Chiang Mai. Activities include much more than mundane sight-seeing, i.e. visiting  museums, wats or simply shopping.

The Ping River invites several different activities from rafting to dinner cruises. Near-by elephant rehabilitation camps will provide you a glimpse of the important role Asian Elephants have played in the evolution of SE Asia's culture and economy.

Chiang Mai is the "jumping-off" point for many and varied natural encounters with the hill tribes indigenous to northern Thailand and adjacent nation-states. One of the highlights from a previous visit, was the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens on the doi Suthep. There are hot springs and National Parks and the "loop tour" which provides an interesting 2-3 day excursion through breath-taking mountain and water-shed scenery.

One of several habitats displaying flora collected from throughout the world - Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens

View of Chiang Mai from atop doi Suthep

Popular lake near Chiang Mai

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep - Thailand's Second Most Revered Temple

 

Many Thai make an annual pilgrimage to visit the famous and storied Wat Phrathat doi Suthep. I have found the easiest and most practical way to visit this immensely popular shrine, is to hire a local van or taxi and plan an early morning departure to (hopefully) avoid the rush of crowds and tour buses.

My favorite guide and host, who provides informative, diverse, safe and economical service, is Paul Collins. Paul is a very unique young man. I want to emphasize my characterization, unique!

Paul is a North American who was born and raised in northern Thailand. He speaks multiple Thai dialects with fluency and possesses an incredible inventory of knowledge specifically focusing on northern Thailand, its culture, micro-communities and many other fascinating historic and adventure venues.

Paul is the proprietor of a service known as Best Tuk Tuk Tours. Do yourself a favor, and consider spending a day with this terrific young man. I promise, you will not regret a moment of your time with him! You can contact Paul here: "Paul Collins"   <besttuktuktours@yahoo.com>

Easier walking down than up!

The principle Temple domain - doi Suthep

The shrine was obviously a monumental effort to build. The flanks of doi Suthep are steep and heavily forested. The enormous commitment of the hundreds of individuals who literally slaved in devotion to their philosophy and beliefs is almost beyond comprehension.

 It was an immense privilege to visit this remarkable edifice and shrine to The Lord Buddha.

PERSONAL NOTE: Many of the photos in this post were the accomplishment of my friend and occasional travel companion, Tom, whose considerable experience trekking throughout SE Asia (and his insight regarding prudent travel in this region), has immeasurably enhanced my independent travels since our first trip to Chiang Mai in 2011.

My next post will present highlights of a multi-day trek through the mountains several miles northwest of Chiang Mai. For those of you familiar with the beaches and seascapes of southern Thailand, this will be a dramatic contrast!

Magnificent mountain scenery of northern Thailand

Thailand's Krabi Province

Southern Thailand - The Seascapes and Islands of Krabi Province

Krabi Province is easily accessed directly from North America and Europe by booking an international flight directly to either, Phuket or Krabi International Airport, or, routing yourself through Bangkok, Thailand's Capitol and largest city.

My choice was to route through Bangkok for two principle reasons: (1) after the 22 hour flight from Seattle to Thailand, I wanted at least a couple days to recoup from jet-lag, let my biorhythms adjust to the SE Asia time zone; and (2) I wanted an opportunity to visit a handful of the primary tourist attractions in Bangkok.

There are additional advantages in choosing to route through Bangkok. Thailand is serviced by a marvelous and efficient regional airline, AirAsia. (AirAsia is a business model similar to Southwest Airlines in the United States). In addition, the principle subsidiary airports in Thailand, of which there are three, are modern, safe, efficient and user-friendly.

All three airports provide international access from Europe and North America and provide all necessary services required for international transit (passport and visa formalities, monetary exchange, tourist information services, security).

It is generally more economical to fly round-trip to-and-from Bangkok. After your arrival in Thailand,  book AirAsia to your final destination in Thailand, Malaysia or Indonesia. AirAsia has dozens of daily flights throughout SE Asia, the continent (PRC), Korea, the Philipine Islands and Japan.

The difference in combined fare savings can be as much as 2-300 USD. That buys a lot of great food in Thailand!

Bangkok Arrival and Transfer Logistics

The logistics of getting from Suvarnabhumi (Soo-wanna-boom) International Airport to downtown Bangkok and your chosen interim lodging, is very easy. The Airport Authority provides strict control and monitoring of taxi services to and from Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Once you have cleared Thai Immigration and Customs, access to several taxi stands is provided.

Taxi stands manage the queues of passengers and taxis, determine your lodging destination and communicate your requirements to your taxi driver (in the event your driver is not multi-lingual) which most are not.

It is important to anticipate the routine from airport to your lodging by taxi, by doing the following:

• Photo copy the name and location of your lodging, complete with the phone number of your hotel, for presentation to the taxi stand monitor. Make two copies and retain one.

• Secondly (and this is very important), once you have entered the taxi, make absolutely sure you request the taxi's meter be activated. Though it is rare, some taxi drivers will purposefully not activate the meter and suggest they will provide the service for "less" than the meter rate which is always absolutely bogus!

• Another ruse is to take a longer than necessary route to your destination, so bear-in-mind that fares to the Sukhunmvit area of downtown Bangkok (location of most hotels and boutique accommodations) is rarely more than 300-400 baht. A 20 baht "tip" is usually sufficient.

The taxi stand monitor will provide you a short form which is a receipt and a "complaint" form. In the event you have a disagreement over fare or any other taxi-driver conduct, the form instructs you regarding the resolution procedure.

Thailand places a very high value on tourist satisfaction. There are many facilities in /at transportation hubs and tourist-oriented venues, including Tourist Police, to provide facilities and personnel to facilitate dispute resolution with vendors, provide advice and direction.

Two or three days in Bangkok to "re-charge" your batteries provides ample time to visit the Grand Palace, perhaps cruise the Chao Praya River and visit the two grand wats (Wat Arun and Wat Phra Kaew) and to take time out for at least a daily foot and body massage at one of a multitude of reasonably priced and competent establishments.

Need I mention Thai food? 

We'll discuss this topic in much more detail when we explore the BTS routes through Bangkok.

Suffice-it-to-say, a plethora of street vendors populates every thanon (boulevard), every soi  (side-street) in this grand city. My suggestion: be observant  of the individual vendor's sanitation habits. If the food offered has been out in the sun too long, look for a "fresher" alternative.

Typical street vendor of home-made Thai food

I have experienced very few digestive problems eating food purchased from street vendors. However, never, never eat the fish caught from the khlongs and avoid (at all cost) water that is not in a sealed container from a well known purveyor of bottled water whose name you recognize.

The variety of Thai food offerings is endless: spicy "Issan", Muslim "masaman", Indian influenced curries and more!

Krabi Arrival - Transfer To Lodging

After a few days in Bangkok, I suggest that you will be more than ready for the laid back beaches of southern Thailand. Plan on arriving Suvarnabhumi airport for your flight at least 90 minutes (perhaps 2 hours) before your scheduled flight departure, especially if your trip is scheduled between November 15th and March 15th, i.e., "high season".

Do not mistake Krabi for Phuket. Phuket is the largest island in Thailand, has its own airport and is a destination distinctly apart from Krabi. Phuket is a highly charged, party-going destination for the fast crowd, increasingly known for its occasional violence and "binge" parties by youthful, rowdy crowds, both Thai and "farang" (outsiders).

The principle tourist area of Krabi is the small beach-front town of Ao nang. Ao nang is the busy and tourist friendly hub and departure point to many islands and beaches within easy reach by a huge fleet of "long-tail" taxi boats. There is ferry service and high-speed taxi boat service to outer islands as well.

Mt personal favorite for transfer services to other island locations and resorts, is a Krabi  tour provider name BLACK TIGER. Black Tiger provides transfer services at a very fair and reasonable price, is secure and is very accommodating and helpful for the "first-time" visitor. (The staff also speaks English).

The Owner/Manager of Black Tiger is "peng" and his cell number is 0897297126.

Black Tiger can be accessed from the Krabi Airport by asking the driver of the bus to take you to the Krabi Pier for a transfer to koh Lanta yai. If you are simply going to a resort in Ao nang, the airport bus will take you directly to your host lodging.

If your hotel or resort does not provide limo service from the airport, it is much more economical to take the tourist bus from Krabi airport to your location in Ao nang. The bus service is much more economical than the 12-person limos for hire at the airport. The difference in price is several hundred baht (again, a lot of food money).

Long-Tail Boats - Popular taxis to outlying islands and beaches from the village of Ao nang

The greater Ao nang area is very popular with Scandanavian tourists. Many resorts and restaurants are known for their focus on Scandinavian familes, attracting a large number of Danish and Swedish tourists during the high season when the long, dark nights and cold weather in northern Europe is  at its annual zenith.

Limestone Karst - Ao Phra nang Beach

There are countless providers of booking services for    marine-oriented recreation, wilderness treks and specialty recreation such as scuba diving and rock climbing.

Krabi is renowned for its wall climbing  There are many spectacular limestone karsts within reach of Krabi and several outstanding, well-equipped guides and guide services to accommodate the growing demand for this adventurous "extreme" sports activity.

Typical Day In Krabi Paradise

 

An "extreme" day for me was the farthest thing  from being tethered to a rope, dangling from a karst 100 meters above the water or beach below! 

 

It was more typical for me to rise, shower, load my back-pack and head for the complimentary breakfast served by my hostess, pai, and then head to the Ao nang beach-front to catch a long-tail ride to one of my favorite beaches.

 

I would usually be one of the first tourists (if not the first) departing Ao nang each morning, clambering aboard a long-tail ferrying employees to one of the remote beaches, off-shore island resorts or restaurants. 

 

The long-tail would drop me off at one of my "beach haunts" where I would wade ashore and enjoy a solitary presence on the pristine, deserted beach for an hour or two ahead of the other tourists that would trickle ashore during the mid-morning hours.

 

The color of  jade - "gin-clear" - Perfect for my morning swim

 

Exploring for a hidden beach

The seascape vistas in early morning light and a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear Andaman Sea was both refreshing and inspiring. The precious moments of solitude in this remarkable, beautiful setting proved both, inspirational and up-lifting for me.

 

It is a venue akin (I think) to sitting at the summit of an alpine peak; the ocean and alpine vistas similar in their magnitude and ability to provoke a profound awareness of one's insignificance, while at the same time inspiring the spirit.

 

It is wonderful to be afforded the privilege and opportunity to live within the moment of such an occasion!

 

 

Guardian of my favorite tree and beach

Before the beach became populated by vacationing families and the arrival of high-speed boats filled with "day-trippers" (mostly organized tours of island-hopping Chinese or Japanese) I would wander the beach until I reached my favorite "lounging" spot.

 

I would unload gear from the back-pack, which consisted of sun tan lotion, an iPod and a 1-litre bottle of water, layout a mammoth beach towel and then park my carcass under the shade of a favorite tree until the arrival of the "food-boats" around high-noon.

 

It was under this tree that I would eventually meet Bodil and Anders, Jorgen and his family, all of whom were escaping the winter chill of their native Sweden.

The Swedish Connection - A businessman and a Swedish rock-n'-roll icon.

Suffice-it-to-say, our congregation of happy "farang" became a daily ritual. We spent a great amount of time together playing and conversing in the sand and water. Fortunately for me, my Swedish friends were fluent in English, and we were able to share a lot of good humor and many stories about our lives in separate but similar environments.

 

I have remained in contact since our serendipitous meeting February of 2011, and, was reunited this year (2012) with Anders and Bodil. Our happy reunion occurred on the island of koh Lanta yai where we shared a couple days in the sun and a few semi-raucous meals together.

 

I would challenge anyone looking at this photo, to guess which of the three adult males above, is the Swedish Rock-n-Roll icon!

 

No; it is not me. I'm not Swedish, but  that's a good guess. Once upon a generation or two (or three) ago, I did make a few bucks working as a part-time professional musician while attending college (is that possible...to be concurrently, "part-time" and "professional")?

 

 

Long-Tail specially equipped as a mobile marine kitchen

 Around mid-morning each day, specially equipped  long-tail boats would begin to arrive at their favorite beaches.

 

 All boats pretty much offered the same menu, but repeat tourist visitors to the same beach every day would  eventually determine which boat excited their taste buds most to their liking.

 

The photo to the left, is my favorite "long-tail restaurant".

 

We became very well acquainted over the nearly one month that I daily visited Ao Phra nang beach. The proprietors are an engaging and immensely friendly Muslim family who reside near Krabi Town (Muang Krabi), 

 

 

 

Not only was their food fantastic, but my impression was that their boat was the most concerned with sanitation, hygiene  and had the freshest fruits and vegetables. The crew was also very adept at making fruit smoothies which added, for me, a whole lot to their appeal as a snack source late in the hot afternoon sun!

 

 

The menu included satays of pork (mu), chicken (gai), fried rice and vegetables, charcoal-broiled corn-on-the-cob, curried quarter of a chicken on a skewer, spicy salads (som tam thai), seafood soups, various other noodle soups and a desert they should have been arrested for serving, banana roti (bananas wrapped in a crepe, fried in butter on a hot cast-iron plate) and sprinkled with confectioners sugar.

 

Service always with a charming smile!

 

Approximately 5 PM every afternoon, I would begin to think about heading back to the village. Some days I would hike through the karst and around the peninsula which separates Phra nang from Railay Beach, a pleasant stroll through the vegetation and trees which was  home to a colony of thieving, but humorous monkeys.

 

Distant relatives!

The monkeys were a source of great curiosity from the kids (admittedly, the adults, too). But, the thieving little rascals would sometimes dash in and steal anything edible that was left within reach of your beach towel. I watched small groups (3-4 of the adult monkeys), rush a location, frighten the inhabitants from therir towels, then rifle through the belongings searching for food.

 

 I even observed one clever female rush up and grab food right out of the hands of a small child, leaving the little girl to sob over loss of her fruit treat!

 

In a Buddhist society, even the rudest of animal behavior is tolerated, so the troupes of monkeys are left to occupy their habitat, unmolested and tolerated by the human cohabitants of Ao Phra nang.

 

 

After their noon-time raids, the monkeys would retreat to the coolness of the forest for their afternoon siesta.

 

Long Day's End

 

I would loiter until the last two or three boats were loading to make the sea-trek back to the village. It was always with a little regret that I watched the equatorial sun slowly descend the western horizon and immerse into the placid Andaman Sea. 

 

Ao nang Beach Sunset - End of the day

 

 

Thailand - Planning The Return

I must back-track to the summer of 2010 to put the entire "Thailand Adventure" in proper context. The sequence of events and the period of transition, from permanent residence in North America to my arrival and part-time residency in Thailand a year later, is filled with serendipity.

Thailand was actually the second of two trips I had planned for the fall and winter of 2010 - 2011. I had always harbored a fascination with the history of eastern Europe, particularly Russia so scheduled a trip to Moscow for October and November of 2010, contingent on receiving a visa from the Russian Federation.

Coincidentally, a preliminary decision was made in the summer of 2010 to travel to SE Asia, Thailand in particular, to explore Thailand's potential as a secondary residence. This was influenced to a great extent by the multiple, exhaustive travel experiences in SE Asia by our family friend, Tom, who was aware of my frequent scuba-diving travel to the South Pacific and Hawaii.

Tom suggested that my affection for Hawaii, Oceania (Fiji, Tonga) and my desire to dive other venues in SE Asia as well, made Thailand a reasonable, if not logical choice for consideration. Planning my initial exploratory trip to Thailand with the possibility of returning later in 2011, became a joint effort with Tom and one of my best friends, Peter, who was my house guest for the summer.

Peter was nearing retirement, had lived and consulted as an Aerospace Engineer (tool designer) in several countries over the span of his professional career. He harbored a deep desire to spend a stretch of time in China and SE Asia where he had friends in residence.

Peter's talents are as varied as they are amazing, especially his language skills. Peter is modestly fluent in Russian, French, Italian, German and fluent in Spanish. He actually speaks reasonably adequate English, too. (Joking, of course)! Add to this, the fact that Peter had lived and worked in Russia, and you can instantly recognize his value in advising me on travel to Moscow.

JoySea - My frequent "home" while cruising the inland seas of the Pacific Northwest

This Would Be Peter!

Early on a beautiful summer morning in July of 2010, Peter and I loaded provisions for an extended trip by boat, and off we cruised into the San Juan Islands of Washington, State and British Columbia, Canada, to relax and plot the overseas trips.

During the course of our cruise, we began sketching out the details of a proposed inter-continental trek to Thailand. By the end of summer, we had the rough outline of our trip, and in October 2010, I ventured out on the first of my two solo adventures. (Moscow, Russia, then 12 weeks later, the exploratory excursion to Thailand).

  

Trip I - Moscow, Russian Federation

The Kremlin and Red Square - Viewed from Saint Basil's Cathedral

St. Basil's - Red Square At The Kremlin In Moscow

My trip to Moscow was undertaken in October and November (late fall) of 2010. I was greatly assisted by Peter who had put me in contact with friends in Russia, through whom I was fortunate to meet a remarkable young business woman who could act as my interpreter and hostess for approximately a month to explore the great Capitol of Russia.

She was also able to move me from my hotel in down-town Moscow, to the residence of another remarkable Russian, Robert, who invited me into his home as a guest (on the outskirts South of Moscow's main metropolitan area), providing accessibility to the primary sites I wished to visit during my first trip.

Robert welcomed me enthusiastically and provided a glimpse into the everyday life and challenges of surviving suburban Moscow.  We spent many early morning hours with coffee and brandy in hand, sharing our life's (post World War II) experiences and observations.

 

Robert - My Moscow Host and Friend

 Thank you Robert! Your hospitality and friendship is forever a treasured memory!

A few days after the first snowfall of the Siberian winter, which turned to nightmarish ice storms in December and January, I returned to the U.S. for an 8 week interlude between my trip to Moscow and my exploratory trip to Thailand.

I had scheduled a month's visit to Thailand in February and March to spend time in Bangkok and the southern Province of Krabi. February is "high season" in the southern provinces and that time coincided with the severe winter weather in North America, my permanent home.

 



Suffice-it-to-say, the dramatic topography, grand seascapes, beaches and the range of diverse outdoor and cultural activities available in Thailand and adjacent countries, was the final determining factor that would eventually lead me right back to Thailand if and when Thai Immigration granted me an "OA-Retirement" visa.

Trip II - The Proposed Trek - Return To Thailand

I returned to the United States from Thailand filled with anticipation and excitement. My intent was to return to Thailand as soon as I could accomplish the rental or sale of my condo near Seattle. I also needed to apply for, and hopefully receive, the "OA-Retirement" visa allowing me multiple entries in-and-out of Thailand.

Krabi Prvince, Thailand -Seascape Viewed From  Ao Phra nang Beach

On my return home, (Surprise! Surprise!) I learned that Peter's intent from the out-set, was to make this trip a circumnavigation of the globe without flying. This required some pretty fancy and complicated planning!

I accused Peter of hallucination...fancying himself a modern-day Magellan, but we set about the planning tasks to make his dream a reality and get me back to Thailand while I was still breathing!

SE Asia was one of the few remaining geographic regions Peter had never experienced, and it was now decided that Thailand was the place I was determined to make a "second" home for the foreseeable future. We decided that there was no compelling need to rush around the world, so decided to make a 4-6 month travel adventure out of our trip.

Our number one priority; plan the trip to accommodate Peter's "flight-less" fetish.

Also, I needed time to accomplish the substantial task of moving out of my house, arranging storage of my household goods, securing the required entry and residency documents for a long-stay in Thailand and all the other details involving finance, legal, insurance, medical, family planning and communication.

Packing and storing all of this!

Packed- up and ready to move

I soon learned that a transition of this magnitude requires a huge commitment of time and a lot of patient effort!

The up-shot was, Peter would eventually "train" to Florida, board the QE II and cruise to Great Britain. I would plan to fly over the pole, meet Peter in London where we would board Euro Rail for the journey across Europe, eventually connecting with the Trans-Siberian Railway in Moscow, Russia.

 

Peter wanted to visit close friends in eastern Europe (Kiev). My desire was to visit Dresden, Warsaw and spend a week or two in NW Russia (St. Petersburg and vicinity). Hopefully I would have the opportunity to meet face-to-face with my Internet acquaintances, Alena and Seveily near St. Petersburg, then travel on to Moscow and re-acquaint myself with Robert.

Peter would travel from Kiev, meet me in Moscow, then we would continue the trek via the Trans-Siberian Railroad to Beijing where Peter had close friends. He would live with them for a few weeks and decide on a schedule for transit to Thailand.

Chiang Mai - Moat Surrounding the Old City

At that point, Peter and I would separate for a couple months. I would continue (by rail) down the coasts of China, Vietnam, cross Cambodia by bus to Laos, transit the Mekong into Thailand to eventually arrive in Thailand's second largest city, Chiang Mai, where I would meet Peter in November of 2011.

The plan was for Peter to stay with a close friend who had immigrated to Thailand, marrying a Thai lady with whom he built a residence on the outskirts of Chiang Mai. I would continue, after a brief stay in Chiang Mai, to Bangkok and look for a suitable, residence which would become the "hub" for my travels in SE Asia and Europe for the foreseeable future.

Peter booked his train fare and prepaid his cruise to Great Britain aboard the QE II. April 30, 2011, he bid "Adios" to his family and friends and departed for Europe. I was to join him in London or in Western Europe as soon as I could rent or sell my condominium.

Living Aboard - Waiting for the visa and Peter's call

I packed my house-hold, moved everything to storage, prepared the final paper-work for the Thai Embassy, moved onto my boat and waited for the arrival of my visa from Thai Immigration.

My Son, Jonathan had quipped, "With a trip this complicated, you can count on something going side-ways...and that's when it really becomes an adventure..."

How prescient was his observation!

 

Serendipity Intervenes

Peter arrived Great Britain early May and joined his friends near London. It was expected that it would take several weeks to secure all the necessary documents for his extended-term visa to the PRC. Also, he was quick to learn that procedures for booking a private roomette on the Russian Trans-Siberian train to Beijing was a nightmare process and that a date certain for a reservation would not be quickly forth-coming.

I quickly put in place a "contingency plan" with friends in Bangkok, who had contacts in the real estate market there, and who could begin the search for housing alternatives for me in the event my travel plans had to be changed.

Strangely, I did not receive any communication from Peter for several days, and when I finally did hear from him, it was the worst scenario possible.

Tragedy Strikes

Peter had suffered massive heart/lung trauma and was confined in a British hospital, barely able to breath without assistance and totally unable to travel. I was devastated! I quickly responded to Peter that I was on the way if he needed anything, to make sure he could get safely back to the U.S. and his health care providers.

Peter remained under the hospital's care for several weeks until Doctors felt it prudent for him to travel under the watchful eye of medical personnel aboard a surface ship. He returned to the U.S. and is now back home in San Diego, living with his daughter's family, and under intense therapy.

A man of lesser courage and determination could not have withstood the physical and mental strain of this past year, but Peter is still intellectually and physically active, especially with his grandchildren and daughter's family, just a more "low-key" approach, as he's fond to say.

Suvarnabhumi International Airport - Bangkok, Thailand

My alternate travel plan was undertaken, and in July 2011, I arrived Bangkok's magnificent Suvarnabhumi International Airport having flown for the second time in six months across the Pacific Ocean to SE Asia.